By Yukari Yamano

Seattle Japanese Garden (Photo by: Michael Lee)

The Japanese have a custom to make a trip to hills and valleys to appreciate autumn foliage in the fall. This is called “Momijigari, 紅葉狩り”. You may have heard of this term and it is translated to “going leaf-peeping" or “autumn leaves viewing” in English. The direct translation of Momijigari, however, is “Red leaves hunting.”

The Japanese have appreciated autumn foliage since the Nara period (710 – 794). There are many poems about autumn leaves in Manyoshu, the oldest collection of Japanese waka poems that were compiled during the Nara period. Among over one hundred poems of autumn leaves in Manyoshu, many used “Momichi, 黄葉 (yellow leaves)” to describe autumn leaves because “黄葉 (yellow leaves)” was the word that appeared in Chinese literature describing autumn foliage.

In the Heian Period (794 – 1185), the aristocracy started to use “Momiji, 紅葉 (red leaves)” more often to describe autumn leaves. They preferred red over yellow leaves. They felt transience in bright red leaves that were just about to fall off from trees. They might have projected themselves in those leaves and felt sad to think of the winter’s arrival afterward.

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are generally called Momiji. However, Momiji in “Momijigari” does not indicate only maple leaves. This Momiji is for all leaves of deciduous trees that change the color to red or yellow. The origin of the pronunciation, “Momiji” is from the verb, “Momiizu, 揉み出づ (rub and exclude)” meaning plant dyeing. It came from safflower dyeing. The petals of safflower contain both a yellow and a red dye. When the petals were put in water, the yellow shade was extracted. Then when the petals were put in alkaline lye, bright orange-red pigment was drawn out.

In the Heian period, although the aristocracy enjoyed plum and cherry blossoms in their own garden, they made a trip to the mountains to enjoy autumn foliage. Back then, among the aristocracy, walking on dirt was considered vulgar behavior. Instead of saying “going” to view red leaves, noble preferred expressing it as “hunting” for autumn foliage. Some literature suggests that they actually picked branches off from trees and appreciated the red leaves in their hands. Since the middle of Edo period (1603 – 1868), common people started going to hills and valleys to enjoy autumn foliage. Rich merchants held banquets over maple leaves. Momijigari became popular activities in the fall for everyone to enjoy.

Red leaves were a favorite motif for many Japanese artists and artisans. There are many arts, crafts and literature inspired by autumn foliage.

Robe (Kosode) with Bambooo Curtain and Autumn Leaves (Integrated Collections Database of the National Institutes for Cultural Heritage, Japan)

Green Tea Caddy, Natsume — Fukiyose Makie

In Noh, 能 and Kabuki, 歌舞伎 performance, there is a narrative called, “Momijigari”. The story was staged in Mount Togakushi in Shinano Province. A warrior of the Taira clan, Taira no Koremochi came to the mountain for deer-hunting and encountered an ethereally beautiful noble woman along with her female attendants. They were having a banquet over autumn leaves viewing. They invited Koremochi to join and offered sake to drink. Koremochi who refused at the beginning gradually became relaxed, drunk and fell asleep. Later the woman abandoned Koremochi there. When she left, she said to him never to wake from his dream. While he was asleep, the Deity Takeuchi, a retainer of the Great Bodhisattva Hachiman appeared in his dream and revealed that the noble woman was the demon of Mount Togakushi. Then, the deity granted Koremochi a divine sword from the Great Bodhisattva Hachiman. Taira no Koremochi woke up and fought against the demon. Eventually Koremochi slayed the demon with the divine sword.

Kabuki narrative, “Momijigari” (National Diet Library Digital Collection)

Seattleites can enjoy Momijigari without making a trip to the mountains and valleys. The Seattle Japanese Garden becomes full of red and yellow in the fall. We have many kinds of maples in the garden, and each day brings out more colors during this time of year, creating a breathtaking view. From October 8th through October 17th, we are hosting our annual maple festival. Due to Covid-19, we do not have performers in the garden this year. However, we have self-guided maple tour brochures during this time. And on weekends, you can enjoy our new Seattle Japanese Garden scavenger hunt. Come and visit the garden during our most beautiful season of year. Reservation is highly recommended during the Maple Festival.

Seattle Japanese Garden on October 6th, 2021 (Photo by Chie Iida)